01 Jun 2025 The big legacy of Shorty Smalls
By Chef Don Bingham
Occasionally, in the world of restaurants, there arise culinary icons that survive generation after generation — institutions that are shining stars for years until one day, their presence comes to an end.
Then once in a while, to everyone’s delight, the familiar sights and scents of a long-lost favorite, fill the air again.
A brave soul will select a new location, perhaps choosing an old facility with character, and, after months of research, sweat equity and investment, “everything old is new again.” Then, the dining establishment is restored in its original glory, with an incredible ambience of the best of the old and the excitement of the new.
This has happened in Beebe, Arkansas, with Shorty Small’s! Many of us enjoyed their specialties for years in Little Rock and even Branson. We recently had the privilege of dining at this favorite restaurant revival in downtown Beebe, following Highway 167 to 67B, the main downtown business strip.
Paul Kreth has been the franchise holder for many years and knew of the original owner of the flagship style “Shorty Small’s” which just happened to have originated in downtown Beebe — just a few shops down the street from the new location.
The renovated space has been known as “The Pigeon Roost” building for many years, situated on Main Street in old-town Beebe and now coming back to life with new shops and businesses in the downtown area.
Paul Kreth was contacted by five Beebe entrepreneurs with the prospect of bringing the restaurant back, renovating the two-story “New Orleans” style building. These residents (Bill and Tosha Handly, Gabe Trobis, Shane Reed, Mark Drennan and Robert Lercher) went to work, along with the help of General Manager (GM) Travis Worley and Franchise Owner Paul Kreth. The result was the grand opening of the Shorty Small’s Beebe location in February.
Those of us who were regular diners at Shorty Small’s well remember the mozzarella cheese sticks (3 oz. each) with marinara sauce, the hamburgers, the “jumpin’-off-the-bone tender” ribs. And now they have added shrimp and grits, the amazing Blackbird Sangria (non-alcoholic), many other delightful specialty drinks from the bar, and a honey mustard dipping sauce for the chicken. They are all on the menu seven days a week for lunch and dinner. I’m looking forward to the Blackbird Festival in the fall when Paul Kreth’s navy bean soup will make its appearance, and maybe the delicious blue cheese dressing for their delectable salads. There really is “something for everyone,” and Beebe has welcomed Shorty Small’s return to this community with their full support!
As I worked with Worley, Assistant GM Claire Quinn and Kreth in the new kitchen, these seasoned cooks shared some of their favorite recipes. I have also included three of my favorites that work well for a mixed group of fun-dining folks, and especially any hearty gentlemen in the crowd.
It’s always encouraging to see the new 501 communities establishing old and new traditions that we all consider part of our history. Shorty Small’s is one of those traditions we will now enjoy once again, on many occasions. There is even the potential of a future Shorty Small’s food truck in the works! Whether dining on the first or second floor, the food and ambience are well worth the drive — 501 LIFE will see you there!
U.S. Senate Bean Soup
1 cup dried navy beans
5 cups water
1/2 cup chopped bacon ends and pieces
1/2 cup diced buffet ham
1/2 cup onion
1/2 cup chopped celery
Salt, pepper and minced garlic to taste
Soak navy beans overnight; drain before cooking; cover with fresh water, bacon ends and pieces (chopped), buffet ham pieces (chopped), yellow onions (diced), celery (chopped), salt, black pepper and minced garlic to taste.
Bring to a boil; reduce heat and cook for approximately an hour and a half. Cook until the beans are tender. Makes about 6 cups.
Blue Cheese Dressing
2 cups heavy mayonnaise
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup cream cheese, diced
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
2 Tbsp. granulated garlic
Mix all ingredients until smooth and refrigerate before and after serving.
Nancy Bingham’s Marinated Brisket
3 or 4-pound brisket
6-9 cloves of garlic, peeled
1 cooking bag
1 cup ketchup
1 cup red wine
Trim brisket: make slits in the meat, then insert garlic cloves into the slits Place the brisket in a cooking bag but wait to cut the slits that allow steam to escape. Mix wine and ketchup; pour over brisket. Seal bag and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
Cut five small slits in top of cooking bag. Place in a shallow pan and bake at 325° for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Cool one to two hours, or until meat is at room temperature, then remove from bag and reserve the leftover sauce. Slice thin portions across the grain of the meat. Serve with reserved sauce or another favorite barbecue sauce.
- The big legacy of Shorty Smalls - June 1, 2025
- Dad, dressings and Great-Grandpa Don - May 5, 2025
- Pastels on parade - March 30, 2025
