Savor the end of summer

By Chef Don Bingham

Farmers markets, roadside tables of produce, gatherings from the garden–not much is more exciting than the regal procession of the garden harvest in a smorgasbord of delectable, home-cooked vegetables! Sound the trumpets, bring out the iced tea, and spread the feast for all to partake! It takes little effort to prepare the mind and palate for the indulgence of fried okra, squash, peas, corn, cucumbers and tomatoes, green beans and new potatoes, cornbread and slaw–the very thought raises one’s dining experience and memories to a different level.

Photos by Mike Kemp

When it comes to comfort foods, we all enjoy our burgers, BBQ, pizza and pasta, yet the nostalgic calling of a homegrown vegetable buffet is hard to top in the culinary entertainment world. Most of us grew up on this as a daily fare, and many of us return to these amazing dishes from our heritages on a limited basis, but this is a celebration for a crowd! This is when the diner takes only a tablespoon or two of each item because there is just too much to conquer and you need sideboards to put out all the dishes and enjoy everything.

My childhood memories are filled with the vegetables from the “peddler” who came on Tuesdays and Thursdays, driving his truck on our residential streets and neighborhoods for anyone to come see what he had to offer. We could shop right in our front yard! Somehow, it was always my duty to shuck the corn that Mom purchased. Needless to say, this was not done with ebullient joy and internal fulfillment, but nonetheless, cream-style corn remains a favorite starchy girth enhancer to this very day. And that is despite the childhood memories of picking the silk from the endless ears of corn! Many of us in West Conway are on the permanent list for corn the first day of its arrival at the local market–just one sack full, but this will last the season when corn is shucked and frozen in smaller batches.

These recipes may be adapted according to the number of guests, special dietary needs and seasonal availability. They are our family favorites. You will have your own additions, of course, but this is a great start! Create your own buffet and decorate it with potted plants, fresh flowers from the yard and lots of conversation.

Bon appetit! 

Homestyle Meatloaf

3 pounds of ground beef

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup ketchup (reserve enough of ketchup to coat top of meatloaf)

1 cup breadcrumbs, oatmeal, or crushed crackers

2 eggs

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 Tbsp. dried oregano

2 1/2 tsp. salt • 1/4 tsp. pepper

Combine all ingredients, mixing well with no lumps. Spread reserved ketchup over top of meatloaf. Bake at 350 for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Yields six servings.

Cream-Style Corn

8-10 ears of corn

1 tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. sugar

3 Tbsp. butter

1/2 cup flour

1/4 – 1/2 cup heavy cream

1 cup water

Cut corn off of cob into a deep bowl. Place the corn in a large pan. Add water and simmer for 8-10 minutes. In another bowl, mix flour and other dry ingredients, along with enough cream to make a paste. Use a strainer to push the flour and cream through a second strainer. Bring flour mixture to the pan. Stir quickly, as the corn mixture will thicken and may not require all of the flour paste. You may add milk or additional cream for the desired consistency.

Cucumber and Onions

2-3 cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced

½ cup water

2 Tbsp. white vinegar

Sugar to taste (about 2 Tbsp.)

Mix together: water, vinegar and sugar. Place cucumbers and onions in liquid and refrigerate until time to serve.

Fried Okra

1 1/2 pounds fresh okra

Vegetable oil for frying (approximately ½ cup)

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 tsp. salt

Wash okra and cut into 3/4 inch slices; sprinkle water on okra pieces. Heat oil for frying. Dredge okra a few pieces at a time in cornmeal, coating well. Fry okra in hot oil until golden. Drain on paper towels. Yield 6-8 servings.

Simple Skillet Squash

6-7 yellow squash, sliced into rounds

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3-5 Tbsp. butter

1 tsp. sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Place squash rounds in lightly salted water and cook until tender but not falling apart, about 5-10 minutes. Heat butter in a skillet on medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, 4-5 minutes. Add squash and season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Purple Hull Peas

3 cups of purple hull peas

4 cups of water or chicken broth

2-4 Tbsp. butter

Salt and pepper to taste

Cover peas with water or chicken broth. Add butter and cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper.

Green Beans and New Potatoes

1 pound fresh green beans

9-10 new potatoes or small red potatoes with skin on

3-4 Tbsp. butter • Salt to taste

Wash, snap and cut green beans. Wash potatoes well. Put the potatoes on the bottom of a saucepan, then add the green beans and cover with water. Add salt and butter. Cook until tender, about 40 minutes.

Don Bingham
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