Life is a highway

Story and photos by Mike Kemp

My cousin’s voice rang through my helmet intercom, “Keep your speed up!” as he closed in on my rear wheel. I was slipping the clutch, making a switchback that was both incredibly sharp and steep while climbing one of the three mountains that make up a fun tour of the Arkansas River Valley.

Mike Kemp enjoys the view atop Mount Nebo.

That trip up Mount Nebo was a marked difference from rides I had taken up the other two that make up a three-mountain collection in the Arkansas River Valley, all of which have varying personalities for a rider. Three mountains, each with a different feel, yet all within easy striking distance of the other.

Having ridden each on different trips, I decided to string all three of them together recently in the name of research.

Research, yeah. That’s how I justify it.

Petit Jean Mountain, Mount Nebo and Mount Magazine are close enough to each other to make a Three Mountains Tour doable in a day. The variety of ascents and descents are worth comparing in a day, too.

Take Petit Jean, for example. Easily my most familiar, given it’s an easy ride from my Conway home, it is my go-to when I need a quick ride but have limited time to do so.

It’s where I’ve ridden the most and has become the most familiar. The curves going up the easy side (and down, when I’m heading home) helped me get over my nervousness when riding downhill into a curve. I often would ride to Stout’s Point or the Palisades overlook, and coming back down Highway 154, I learned where braking points were and just how much speed I could safely carry through the corners.

Petit Jean State Park is Kemp’s go-to when out for a quick ride.

A set of curves on the west side of the mountain are a bit more technical, one of which I always referred to as my “monster.” A 15-mph switchback still gives me pause, and I still take it easy through there, but my nerves have gotten a lot steadier over the years when I deal with that curve

Not only that, Petit Jean has several different routes up and down the mountain. When at Palisades, you can continue east or take Highway 155 to the south and connect with roads taking you to Casa or near Adona, and even loop back to Pontoon and Highway 154. So many roads to explore, all of which have twists, turns and rollercoaster-esque elevation changes that can keep you occupied well past when you told your significant other you would be back home.

Oftentimes, practicing and studying proper cornering techniques combine to produce confidence, but I’m not sure that applies for Mount Nebo.

A series of 11 switchbacks take you up the mountain, with no other route available. So, the roads that make you nervous going up have the equal opportunity of making you nervous on the return trip.

The tight curves combine with steep elevation changes in such a way that RVs over a certain length are prohibited on that road. Gouges in the inside of those switchbacks bear witness to vehicles who have pushed the limits of those requirements. But on a shorter, lighter and nimbler motorcycle, you can take a deep calming breath and power up

The key is to enter the curve as far outside as possible, keeping a good sightline through the corner. I try to avoid the inside of the lane as much as possible and usually hear the words of my cousin encouraging me to keep my speed up to prevent stalling mid-corner and dropping my motorcycle. Slipping the clutch can help, as well as dragging the rear brake as you would in making a U-turn.

In a sense, climbing and descending Nebo is much more rewarding than the other two mountains. A sense of accomplishment and relief at the top is a double reward as you take in some beautiful views of the Arkansas River Valley. From Sunset Point, you can even spot Mount Magazine in the distance.

If, like me, you’re working from east to west, you now have the highest point in Arkansas awaiting you.

Mount Magazine stands above the others at 2,753 feet at its highest point, compared to 1,207 for Petit Jean and 1,345 for Nebo. The ride up from Havana is via the Mount Magazine Scenic Byway (state Highway 309) and is as exciting as it is scenic.

The road’s variety of curves is the most entertaining for me due to the variety of types of curves. There are several tight, technical curves with limited sight lines that demand your diligence, sprinkled with more open curves that you can easily see through.

Beautiful views await you as you crest the mountain. From either the overlooks on the highway or those scattered through Mount Magazine State Park, riders can get an awesome view of Blue Mountain Lake and even grab a bite in the lodge. If you’re coming from Paris, the road isn’t quite as twisty, but still twists its way up the mountain in a manner that’s guaranteed to keep you entertained.

Tying the three mountains together is one of numerous fun rides in and near the 501 area code, and one I would definitely encourage you to tackle.